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Erté's Art Deco influence still lives today
Sleek and sexy Erté images fetch fancy prices at auction

Harem dress, Courtesy of Erté
Harem dress

Erté, born Romain de Tirtoff on November 23, 1892, was a child prodigy who began his fashion career at age six when his mother had a dress made from one of his first sketches. A native of St. Petersburg, Russia, he left for Paris at age nineteen to pursue a career in the arts. He assumed the professional name "Erté" because that's how his initials, "R.T.," were pronounced in both French and Russian. He created costumes for the notorious Mata Hari and movie stars such as Joan Crawford and Norma Shearer. He also fashioned sets and costumes for Hollywood films, the Folies Bergeres and the Paris Opera, just to mention a few.

Erté began his climb to international fame at the great fashion house of Paul Poiret. With the onset of WWI in Europe, many of the great fashion houses shut down and Erté was forced to turn to other design avenues. In 1914, he began what would turn into a 22-year affiliation with the American magazine "Harper's Bazaar". His many illustrations graced not only the covers, but filled the pages as well. For more than eight decades, Erté thrilled critics and his public alike with spectacular work in fashion, theater, opera, ballet, film, television and fine art. He designed exquisite Art Deco jewelry, bronze sculpture and costumes. When designing costumes, he used gouache, a mixture of watercolor and white paint. This medium had the color range and flexibility he needed to do highly detailed work without the extended drying time that oil paint requires.

Costume design for The Marriage of Figaro, Courtesy of Erté
Costume design for The Marriage of Figaro
Erté and his Art Deco style enjoyed a resurgence of popularity in the mid-'60s with his Paris exhibition of "Formes Picturales," a group of painted sculptures of various materials. In the late '60s, the Metropolitan Museum of Art purchased an entire collection of 179 works from Erté's exhibition in New York. Erté has largely been credited with the creation of the field of limited edition graphics as it is known today. At age 88, he began his work in bronze sculpture, achieving equal success with this medium. Erté truly became a classic during his own lifetime, a prominent figure in the progression of art and fashion. Erté's artistic career continued until his death in 1990. His Art Deco costume designs are in every major museum throughout the world including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the L.A. County Museum in Los Angeles.

'Beloved' sculpture, Courtesy of Erté
'Beloved' sculpture
Erté's works have never really gone out of style, and the prices they command reflect that popularity. However, since he did put out limited editions, there are a few good bargains out there. I ran across a couple of Erté's gouaches of costume designs while I was attending a cruise ship auction. They went on the block for $16,000 but didn't sell at that time. On the other hand, the art director told me that at an earlier auction they sold a serigraph for $2,000. If these seem a bit pricey, you can find copies of Erté's Art Deco designs printed on everything from paper dolls to postcards and they'll still be just as lovely.

By Aileen Forman